Training for the Cape Wrath Ultra started 7 weeks out from the start of the 21st May. I was already fit going into this block of training as I had just completed the Chianti Ultra 73km race in which I raced well and subsequently recovered well. My training then built gradually. My weekly training comprised a long run, a speed turnover session, a moderate/ tempo run and some easy miles along with strengthening and conditioning. As I look back over my training, I averaged per week 56miles/ 90km and 10000 ft/ 3120m. However, it wasn’t as consistent as this in reality. I did some big mile weeks and one of them was too big; my body was tired and I rolled my ankle. It seems I can do the big training week but not recover in time to repeat it the following week. I have a life and job that also needs my energy. So I stopped running to let my ankle recover and cycled instead. I did manage to build another big week towards the end because it was close to tapering, so I knew they’ll be plenty of recovery time afterwards. Some of the weekends looked like back to back long runs but that wasn’t intentional. It’s just that that was the only opportunity to get them in. Luckily for me the bank holidays helped, meaning I could spread the longer runs out with a day in between. My longest run was 25miles/ 5hrs with full kit over Dartmoor where the terrain is very similar to Scotland with bogs, peaty soil and uneven tussocky grass.
I immersed myself in as much knowledge from those who are done it before and tried to be as informed as I could be. As a result I started preparing my kit 6 weeks out; my husband jokes it became part of the furniture. The website provides a great packing list to guide you. I knew I needed to buy some new kit including a new pack (thanks myracekit) so as I got kit together it needed a dumping ground. I practised with full kit on all my long runs. I used a 12l pack. I also planned out a fuel strategy. I went with 60g carbs per hour. Ideally one would consume more but knowing my stomach I needed a realistic plan to start with. In reality my plan worked well for the first few days but after forcing the food in my stomach grew tired of it and what I used in the last few days was just gels and energy drink (thanks xmiles for the selection) only.
I am lucky enough to have done other stage races in the past so I’m aware of their challenges. However, this stage race was longer than most (8days) with the potential to be cold and wet for the whole time and that is something I was hugely apprehensive about; my packing revolved around being warm! In the end it only rained and was extremely windy high up in the hills over 2 days so I felt incredibly fortunate.
I tapered well. No sense of doubts; I was ready. I slept well the week before and didn’t try to overeat. I then drove the 11hrs to Scotland with a stopover half way in order to register and race.
Registration was smooth; compulsory kit checked, briefings listened to, supper eaten and then I headed off to find somewhere to park up and sleep in the van.
The Cape Wrath Ultra is a 400km journey through the best scenery the Scottish Highlands have to offer.
I had the start time of 1200. We had to walk from the bag drop off to the ferry. The race started the other side of water near Trislaig. The bagpiper welcomed us ashore which really heightened the occasion.
Day 1: A runnable road/ trail to lead us away from civilisation. The whole 34miles/ 586m was pretty runnable apart from a descent of 5km ish where it was boggy, slippy, rocky and grassy; and I fell in a bog up to my waist.
Day 1 was completed in 3hrs 9mins. Camped at Glenfinnan.
Here started my post race routine; I drank a 32Gi recovery drink, washed in the river (got caught – “welcome to the lesser spotted beaver!” before rapidly dressing again), re-packed my pack for tomorrow and then ate (soup and chips on offer immediately post run everyday). I wore the same clothes everyday so washed them too. It took away the decision making and meant I could carry a bigger warmer sleeping bad in my 20kg allowance. My luxury item was 8 pairs of merino wool Injinii socks. I used one pair of shoes which were brilliant- SCOTT Supertrac RC 2.
Day 2: Welcome to the midges. It wasn’t raining or cold but the midges were incessant and drove me out of camp early.
Todays run came with a warning- it’s long and hard to make the cut offs. It was 56km, 2029m, and took me 7hrs 57mins. It was runnable for the first 4miles or so which felt nice to warm the legs up. Then it became much more varied; moorland, single track, technical trail and plenty of soggy ground through the Knoydart; Britain’s last wilderness! I loved it! Despite falling in 3 bogs up to my waist. Luckily nearby rivers cleaned me off.
I had started at 0720 and most people had left before me so I was overtaking people until about 15miles and then was on my own. I was so pleased to have the GPX on my watch as during the pathless sections I was wholly reliant on it. I was pretty apprehensive about getting lost but was soon joined by Alistair Smith and then Sam Hill which helped shared the pressure. Eventually the winner shot past- a young Scottish lad, David Parrish.
Camp was at the end of Loch Beag at Kinloch Hourn.
Same camp routine and then wait to welcome my tent mates back. There were 7 of us in the 8 man tent and I couldn’t have asked for better buddies!
Day 3: Achnashallach to Kinlochewe, 66km/ 2736m in 9hrs 30mins.
The best bit was saved to last – the heathery descent was fast and furious- you could zig zag but I just hurtled straight down. It was a long day with some technical descents especially coming off The Saddle which was the first peak at 750m. It was through Kintail with some remote mountain glens and the finest munro (peaks over 3000ft). The Falls of Glomach were pretty spectacular. I didn’t take poles and didn’t regret it but it was a 50/50 decision. My running pace on the flats has already slowed but that was to be expected.
Day 4: The day started off in the rain and low cloud. I still wore shorts but had arm warmers and a raincoat as additional layers. I took my poles today but to honest I didn’t really need them. It was a 7km climb to 600m with Beinn Liath Mhor and Sgor Ruadh on opposing sides. Unbelievable scenery as they towered 1km above me. These Torridon hills are made from some of the oldest rocks in the world and there was snow on the peaks.
The loch and Coire Mhic Fhearchair waterfall was stunning after the 600m ascent in another 7km. Then you had to contour round Ruadh- stac Mor on pathless terrain for 5km. It was a steep down initially and then boggy and heathery. There was an amazing river so blue with white pebbles. I stopped to drink from the water; it was so pure and refreshing. Then the runnable final path down helped make up time I lost on the steep pathless descent.
Kinlochewe was the campsite, in the sunshine next to a swimmable river. I had run 35km/ 1577m in 5hrs 16mins.
Day 5: I didn’t feel so good today. The pace was faster so I guess I was feeling the effects of that and obviously the previous 4 days. It was runnable through the beautiful Fisherfield mountains with no permanent settlements it’s remote and desolate. The An Teallach ridge to the west on route is a technical mountain ridge from sediment deposited 1 billion years ago! I ran from Kinlochewe to Inverbroom covering 42km/ 1363m in 5hrs 22mins.
I had started to develop tibia’s anterior (shin) tendon pain so when we got issued an ice lolly at the end I used it as an ice pack! The midges had backed off but the ticks were making their presence known in the most private of places! How do they get there?!
Day 6: The day started off with lots of runnable trail, along which my Garmin 945 watch catastrophically failed. The triangle of doom appeared to my horror. I managed to factory reset it but the courses uploaded to it were lost.
This was a nightmare- the last 8 miles had me navigating across peat hags in the wind, rain and cold with no paths and no one around. I had a melt down, pulled myself together, made it to my tent and then cried! I was emotionally exhausted. I had run 8hrs 38mins covering the 72km/ 2000m. The tent buddies were amazingly supportive as I relayed my whinging story! The camp was in Inchnadamph with the clag looming behind it!
Day 7: I had hardly felt my shins the day before due to the intense concentration I used to navigate but today they really complained so I had to take some painkillers (Shhh!) and tape them with Rocktape. The initial up to 623m was great- I hung onto Jon Hall and Ian Malcolm which really inspired me to push my pace. The weather was windy and wet and I soon lost them on the descent off the top. By the time I got to CP 1 at 16miles and was having a low point.
I was motivated to push the next section up to Ben Dreavie (510m) because it was so cold. I only had a t- shirt on under my raincoat but I was in the dilemma of, stop and put on my thermal layer and get wet and cold, and lose my nipples, or run faster! I pushed on through the pathless terrain (carrying a spare watch thanks to Debbie Martin- Consani). Assynt really showcased a bit of everything- moor, mountains and sea loch including Eas a Chual Aluinn, the highest waterfall in the UK.
I got mildly carried away on one section of track. Jon was following the tracker and shouting at the screen!! Eventually I heard him… or my watch beeped at me!
I kept looking forward to the road section but once on it, unfortunately, I couldn’t pick up any sort of pace. I was tired and so were my shins! The final descent to camp was agonising (sorry Alistair who had to endure my groans!). I had run 61km/ 2350m in 8hrs 52mins into Kinlochbervie where warm showers awaited (more groans!).
Day 8: The final day was a case of ‘get it done’ I’m afraid. My face and ankles had started to swell. If I hadn’t been so tired and sore I would have loved todays run; ploughing along tracks, skipping over heather and climbing from Sandwood bay, with its golden sands and azure blue water with the dramatic silhouette of the Am Buachaille sea stack in the background. Ok I did love it really but was pretty focused on reaching the end.
Everyday at the finish lines the volunteers cheering was awesome and today was no different. The track to the lighthouse was a welcome site with a cheering wealth of volunteers. I had covered the 24.5km/ 862m in 3hrs 21mins; overall running for 52hrs 9mins and breaking the course record by 45mins.
We left the lighthouse by minibus and then caught a ferry across to the final camp at Keoldale.
Vegetarian haggis, neeps & tatties for supper. Beers for many, sleep for most! The prize giving saw everyone collect their medal and justly deserved recognition for overcoming such an awesome and challenging event which was so well organised.
Thank you to everyone involved- Shane Ohly, the race director and his fantastic staff, all the volunteers, other runners and my tent buddies!
Jo Meek 